My Whitby 42 Blog

More Varnishing

September 4, 2012
Tara has been leading the charge on getting all the wood varnished.  However, it is a team effort.

She is working so fast in the boat you can't even get a picture of her.





The inside of the boat has been sanded and taped.  Now just to varnish.  Once that happens, lots of wood is ready to go back on.
 

Pedestal

September 4, 2012
Re installed the pedestal   Before I installed the pedestal, I placed a ring of thickened epoxy around the opening.  Approx 1/2 inch high.  The concept, is that water WILL get into the console.  There are vents, numerous openings and attachments, etc...  This way, if water does get in, it will not be able to work its way into the engine room.  I will leave a small opening in the caulk around the sides to allow the water to escape.  We cut new aluminum rings for it.

 
 No wonder I keep getting sunburn on my head!!

 
 

Sails

September 4, 2012
First time I actually looked at the sails.  Only took one and a half years.  And They look way better than I though.

The boat has only been sailed a few times in the last 10 years.  The boat sat for 6 years, the previous owner bought it, sailed it some for 1 season, then put it on land for 1.5 years, now I have had it for 1.5 years.  I don't know when they were made, but they still have that crinkle to them.  Much better than any sail I have ever had. 

2 jibs, same size.  For roller reefing.
2 main mains.
1 mizzen main
1 spinnaker   With a Canadian flag on it.  Looks like it got wet at some point and the faberic leached and caused some stains.  Almost looks tie-died.
 and it comes with a sock.

 

Chain plates going in.

September 4, 2012
I have some chainplates on order from Stainless Steel Outfitters in Barrie.

I have installed some already.

As well as some wood work.

 

Engine room insulation

September 4, 2012
I want a quite boat.  It is one of the things I am picky about.  I can't stand being inside a boat an unable to talk to people, listen to music etc... when the engine in on.  So I am going the extra mile to make sure my boat is quiet.  

Step 1.  Add 1 inch Safe and Sound Roxul insulation.  It is a stone fiber insulation that does NOT burn.  
Step 2.  Add 1/2 inch plywood.
Step 3.  Add 1/2 inch foam insulation with the high density rubber layer and a shinny surface.  Shinny surface doesn't do anything for sound, but will help reflect light and keep the engine room bright.



It is still a work in progress.  I am waiting to do a lot of things in the engine room for my exhaust system.  I have some pipes getting put together and once those go in, I can attache the fuel line, exhaust lines, risers, etc.. etc...  This insulation will eventually completely surround the room.  Haven't tested it yet.  I have a access to physics equipment, such as decibel meters and will eventually let you know how it works.
 

Hand rails

September 4, 2012
We installed Stainless steel hand rails on the top.  Forward and aft instead of the wood on the outside.  Wood is nice to look at....but let me know how you feel when you are sanding, and varnishing.  And if you are me....then cleaning up all your mistakes and doing it again.    The painting on the top of the boat looks strange.  That is because it is awaiting Kiwi grip paint that will be done in May.  Just before we launch the boat.

Because the original hand rails had the inside and outside rails on the same bolt that was then hidden inside the rails, there was no way to ever fix a leak.  We are NOT doing this.  The down side is there are extra holes in the boat.  But if you ever need to take them off and rebed them, it will not be massive job.  Trade offs for everything.  You can see the bolts coming up where the inside railing is attached.  These have not been cut down yet.  

All holes were drilled out, epoxied, and then redrilled!!!
 


Inside hand rails also installed:


Now I finally have a place to hang my work light.  
 

Bow roller

September 4, 2012
Bow roller is installed.  Well.....except for a few bolts that I had to special order.  But it is caulked and bolted down.
Chain plate is also on.  The chalk on the right had to be moved.  The bolts broke and were galvanized in.  So we drilled and tapped new holes.  If you look carefully, it is 1/2 inch more forward than the one on the left.
 
 

Water Tanks

September 4, 2012
I finally got the water tanks cleaned, closed up, plumbed, and ready to be attached to the rest of the boat.
 
With the centre tanks, I had to make new baffles, so I started with a sheet of 1/8 inch aluminum and traced the baffles from the other side.
   

I cut and riveted on the braceing pieces.  I used a potable epoxy to put nuts in the end of pipes.

Then I installed them:

I then added new gasket material.  A food grade gasket material.  I got thick gasket material to help seal the lids.  1/8".  I think 1/16" would have been fine.  I didn't visualize how thick it would be.  So I had to get longer bolts.  But now it is done.

The forward V birth water tank had another issue to deal with.  At some point the boat was equipped with a water maker and the owners felt that they didn't need the extra tank. So they cut a much larger hole in the top.  So I cut a new piece of aluminum that was 1 inch bigger on all sides and with a gasket in between riveted it on .  In the hole of that, I cut a regular shape hole and riveted that piece on as well.  All the fitting are now attached.
 
 
You will notice that there is one extra attachment.  
1.  The fill
2.  The outtake
3.  The vent
4.  The return.
5.  Little thing is the Tank tender system.
I am setting up the tanks so that water can be moved between tanks and filtered in the process.

I am using PEX pipe.  By the way, I discovered something.  A 1/2 inch pex pipe fits almost perfectly into a 5/8 inch flex pipe.  I of course discovered this AFTER I bought a bunch of fittings.  Just add an o clamp.


 

Painting the Hull

September 4, 2012
We painted the Hull.  Or tried too.  We had a good weather window so we went for it.   We got scaffolding around the boat (A life safer, worth every single penny!!!  I would have payed double, it made life so much easier)  We narrowed our choice down to Interlux Perfections and Awlgrip.  Both faired very well in the Practical Sailor reviews.  Awlgrip has a better name to it but it cost a lot more.  Knowing that we are no where near professional painters.....and most of the time barely get to the "Average" rating, we went with the cheaper paint.....but still $80 per quart!.  So not really what I would call cheap.

The boat had the hull fixed up by the previous owner and then primed with an epoxy primmer spray, except the stern. 
Pictures of work by previous owner:  He did a great job!! 
    
Here it is all primed and ready to go.

I put the primer coat on the stern after sanding and fairing and filling holes.  The hole is for the exhaust, and the divit on the right is a marker where I later drilled a hole for the Gen exhaust.:



Step 1.  Sand the primer with 220 and a sander.
STep 2.  Hand sand the primer with 320 or 400, which ever one I happen to grab (I can't remember.)

Step 3.  Wash down boat and all the sanding dust.
Step 4.  Paint with expensive paint, expensive rollers, and tip right away with expensive brush.
Step 5.  Hand wet sand with 320, wipe down, repeat Step 4.
Step 6  Go back and touch up mistakes a day later.

Part 2. 
Step 1. Remove all the tape, re-tape for the blue stripes.

Step 2. Sand any drips that fell the stripes.
Step 3.  Paint. (kids painted the blue stripes, except for a small portion at the front that was too high).
Step 4.  Wet sand stripes, wipe down,
Step 5.  Paint again.
Step 6.  Remove tape.
 Step 7.  Say bad words when you realize the paint went under the tape and clean up all that mess.

Part 3.
Apply 3 tubes of boat life caulk between the cap-rail and the hull, just above the blue paint.  
Then clean up all the caulk you accidentally got on the nice new paint.
Touch up blue paint.

Swear to never paint again!
But at least it is done.

I call it the 5 foot paint job.  At 5 feet, it looks GREAT!

The ladder was moved to the bow.  It made it VERY easy to paint at the front.  It was hard to get the scaffolding under and still be able to reach everywhere.  
What looks like marks on the boat......are actually reflections!!!  cool. 
 
A single picture.....so show hours and hours of work.
 
 
 

Blood, Sweat, and Diesel

September 4, 2012

I started installing the new Fuel System.  I purchased 2 4 way 1/2 inch valves.  This will allow me to control from a single switch where the fuel is coming from and where it is going to.  I will have the means to pump fuel from any tank to another and filter it if needed.  I am using copper pipe that is covered with polyethlene cover.  It is used here in Ontario for hooking up oil tanks for home heating. Read more at the link: Copper Pipe  I figure it can't hurt in the boat.  Will protect it from touching other metals and keep water off it.  Fool proof, NO, but It might extend the life a few years.  The old lines I took out were in really bad shape.  Most were green goo. and had lost a lot of integrity.  Thy where brittle and snapped.  No more flex.

Nice calm valves on the outside:

Chaos on the inside:
 
 

Bryan Haas


Please feel free to contact me! I grew up on the waters of the Chesapeake sailing and fishing. I was paid to work, sail, race, and sometimes live on a 51' Hinkley (they didn't really need to pay me but they offered!). I am a high school science teacher who likes to learn by doing. Used to teach at "The Sound School" in New Haven Ct. Check it out, the most amazing on- the- water school there is. I have rebuilt smaller boats from scratch, but nothing on this scale. This is an adventure. All help is greatly appreciated.

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Just as a reminder to my self why I am doing all of this.  There is nice weather at the end of the tunnel.

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